On Sunday, August 11th, Christine comes to Spain to join me for the remaining trip. We meet in Santiago de Compostela and use the time to visit the town.
Santiago de Compostela
There is quite a lot of tourism in the center of Santigo de Compostela, which is what we actually expected. Lateron, in the afternoon, we travel back to A Coruña and visit the old town there.
Monday morning we untie the lines to sail to Camariñas. Again there is no wind. We abandon quickly one trial under sails since the speed drops to less than 2,2kn. Again we add 48nm to our overall distance under engine, but for us it is very important to quickly pass Cape Finisterre, which has a very bad reputation in stormy weather.
From A Coruña to Camariñas
North of the harbour of Camariñas you can anchor in a nice little bay. Some other boats are already there but there is enough space for all of us.
On Tuesday we continue – this time under sails with Northerly winds. The wind pushes us the whole day long and the sun is shinig from a cloudless sky. We sail around Cape Finisterre under the best imaginable conditions, turn back to the North after the passage of the Cape to anchor in the beautiful bay called Sardiñeiro .
Around Cap Finisterre
This bay is a dream and I do not understand why I never took the time to anchor in this beautiful area of Spain in the past.
Wednesday morning we have foggy weather and no wind. Lateron we encounter even light headwind. So we use the engine again, but we have only 18nm to go to reach Ensenada de San Francisco, nearby Muros. The wind died down completely on arrival and and we can safely anchor outside the swimming area, marked by yellow buoys. Another very nice anchorage and I really understand that you can spend plenty of time in this area – if you have enough time…
Ensenada de San Francisco
We continue on Thursday with perfect Northerly winds and a blue sky. We sail wing-to-wing for the 35nm to Ensenada da Barra – some miles north of Bayona – due to perfect conditions. Our speed is always around 6 to 7 kn. We also have dolphins which stay for some 10 minutes with us. A rare chance these days, when I compare to the past.
E. de San Francisco to Ensenada da Barra
The anchorage of Ensenada da Barra is quite crowded. This bay is located nearby Vigo and the local ships use the bay for a stay during the day. The wind has increased and blows heavily over the hills. The bay itself is a nudist area and is equally very crowded on the shore. But it is big enough that everyone can find a safe anchorage. Going ashore with the dinghy is only allowed without using the outboard motor, and the swimming area is again protected by yellow bouys.
Ensenada da Barra
On Friday we sail the 10 nm over to Bayona – using the engine since there is no wind…
Bayona is a very nice town. The old town is charming and you find restaurants and bars everywhere and tourists from all over the world. We stay in Puerto Deportivo de Bayona but you can also stay in the neighboring yachtclub, which looks much nicer. The ambiance is very charming and the reception is reported to be very welcoming in the yachtclub. Also, there is a nice old clubhouse with an excellent restaurant as part of it.
More information about this interesting coast can be found in the (german) blog of Sönke Röver: https://www.blauwasser.de/reviere/galicien-revierinfo
His blog www.blauwasser.de is full of very interesting articles, which to my mind is a huge source of information for blue water sailors.
Our experience so far with fishing buoys along the coast:
– wherever you approach shallow waters, you will encounter many fisher buoys. These are connected to each other on the ground. Meaning that you can pass, but you should keep a good distance.
– on all capes you equally find plenty of fisher buoys.
Sailing by night is not recommended at all near the coast, and if necessary, you should stay in deep waters (at least 100m plus). There you should be better off. The risk of getting one of the fishing lines into the propeller is a real danger and must absolutely be avoided. This would really be a big problem…
We are looking forward to sail the Portuguese Coast now. The Northerly winds should be quite stable from now on, which would mean that we can make long and comfortable distances. Tomorrow, on Sunday, we will start.
Portugal we come 🙂